From Praha with Love
The sixth stop of our Interailing adventure turned out to be the perfect European getaway for two…
Prague over Vltava. Image: Rhia Chohan
On my visit to the Czech capital I discovered that the days - or should I say nights - which saw the city teeming with stag-parties pursuing cheap beer were long gone. Picture-perfect and unspoilt during both World Wars, the Bohemian city of Prague is the ideal setting for a romantic retreat.
The New Town…
Marc and I were at the ready with our maps and the Nove Mesto (New Town) inaugurated our Slavic experience. We began the day near Wenceslas Square with a coffee in an inconspicuous courtyard café: Káva Káva Káva, which, as you’ve probably guessed, is what the locals call cwarffee. And you can get these scrummy bagels to go with.
It was a short walk to Narodni tram stop where you can’t help but pause to marvel at the neo-renaissance grandeur of the National Theatre - an edifice that embodies Czech national identity and is home to the capital’s finest ballet and opera - so I’ve heard. It stands proudly on the banks of the Vltava where we eventually set eyes on the breathtaking panorama of Prague’s infamous gothic skyline overlooking the river. I was major trigger happy at this point. Dominating the distant spires was the city’s main attraction - and our next stop - Prague Castle.
Only a short tram journey away, we arrived on the hour just in time for the changing of the guard, who were clad in pale blue. Unlike our chaps in London, one of them even managed to crack a smile!
As one of the largest castles in Europe there is so much to explore on site including the St. Vitus Cathedral. Marc and I escaped to the slightly surreal Japanese-themed Garden on the Bastion for a quiet stroll before leaving through the Golden Gates for the cobbled streets of the Mala Strana (Little Quarter).
The Little Quarter…
Nerudova Street begins at the foothills of the castle and hosts handsome views of the city at the top. Visitors can buy souvenirs such as trinkets, jewellery and bohemian glass. Be warned as they are overpriced. I succumbed to their charm and bought my sister one of those Matryoshka dolls.
The candy-coloured townhouses with art-deco façades have now been converted into quaint hotels and restaurants, but still bear the ornate emblems of their previous owners.
Before 1770, pictograms were used instead of numbers to distinguish buildings.‘The Three Fiddles’ (now no. 12) was aptly named to a family of 18th century violin makers. Legend has it that people can still hear mysterious strings there during a full moon. With the elaborate marionettes on sale and the street musicians, it is easy to mistake Nerudova for the backdrop to a Brothers Grimm fairytale.
It led us to the great Charles Bridge, which was bustling with sightseers, artists and souvenir traders - a popular tourist spot (it’s less busy earlier in the year) but not to be missed. The bridge is lined with tens of statues and you can’t overlook the magnificent baroque rooftops of the Stare Mesto (Old Town) in the distance.
The Old Town…
We eventually joined the crowd in the Old Town Square to view the hourly ‘Procession of the Apostles’ on the stunning Astronomical Clock. The square also hosts the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, whose truly enchanting, gothic towers resemble something out of a Tim Burton film *imagines Johnny Depp with scissors*.
Nerudova. Image: Rhia Chohan
The evening atmosphere in the Old Town was lively as a jazz band fittingly entertained passers-by with a rendition of ‘In the Mood’. Marc and I had also built up an appetite - the many wine bars and restaurants meant we were spoilt for choice. Opting for Orange Moon, a chic Burmese-inspired restaurant (yes very ‘local’ indeed), we scoffed a generous three-course meal including drinks for around £20 – for us both! Bargainous.
Prague is justly notorious for its beauty, while catering to all tastes for a romantic weekend without breaking the bank. Over a decade and a half since the Velvet Revolution the Czech Republic is thriving and on a small student budget, we merely scratched the surface of the city, hence a return visit is definitely on the cards.
Meanwhile, our evening and what remained of our change was spent in Bombay Cocktail Bar on Dlouha Street. There was a lot of change.