From wheelchairs to waves: surfers with disabilities hit the sea

As soon as Margarita Molina-Corona hit the waves, she knew surfing was her sport.

“It was absolutely amazing, an incredible feeling of freedom and a rush of excitement,” the 25-year-old San Diegan said. “It was awesome to be able to enjoy the waves like everyone else.”

It just took some creativity and assistance for Molina-Coronia, who uses a wheelchair, to get out on the water. She was one of 100 people with disabilities who participated in an adaptive surfing event at La Jolla Shores Sunday.

The event was offered by the Life Rolls On Foundation, founded by Jesse Billauer, a former professional surfer who became paralyzed after he broke his neck in a surfing accident at 17.

At 21, he organized the event, and has held it 10 times per year for the past 15 years, at spots throughout Southern California, the East Coast and even Nova Scotia.

“It gives you that independence and that freedom that you lost,” he said. “When you’re riding on the waves, you feel free, with the winds and the sun in your face, one with nature. At that moment, you don’t feel paralyzed.”

The event drew kids and adults, first-timers and repeat surfers. Some 400 volunteers bobbed in the water or gathered on the shore, wearing brightly colored rash guard shirts to designate their teams. Together they transferred participants from wheelchairs to rolling beach chairs to surfboards equipped with rails and straps. Surfers rode in the position that felt most comfortable for them — lying prone, sitting or kneeling — while volunteers guided the boards from behind and formed protective lines around them.

Surfing for the first time Sunday, 7-year-old Maddie Anderman nestled in the arms of a volunteer who held her on the board. With an Ariel mermaid doll tucked into her Dora the Explorer life vest and a serious expression on her face, she entered the water with a little trepidation. After a few waves, however, she broke into a big smile. After fourteen waves, she was beaming.

“I was a little bit scared at first, but once I did it I liked it,” she said. “It felt a little like pushing and pulling in the surf, and it felt wet.”

Maddie and her family made the seven-hour drive from their home in Queen Creek, Arizona, near Phoenix, to get in the water Sunday.

A friend who has muscular dystrophy like Maddie had participated in a “Life Rolls On” event in Huntington Beach, and recommended it. Maddie had already tried boating and adaptive skiing, so her mother, Jackie Anderman, thought surfing would be a good opportunity.

“She’s an adventurer,” Anderman said.

It takes a sense of adventure to leave a wheelchair for the waves. Although they’re assisted by teams of volunteers, the surfers aren’t exempt from wipeouts.

Alejandro Fernandez, of Chula Vista, participating for the third time this year, said he’s gotten used to the wilder side of the swells.

“The first time I ate it I freaked out,” said Fernandez, 33, who was paralyzed in a car accident in 2001. “I was scared, but the volunteers jumped in and three seconds later got me up.”

David Brown, director of rehabilitation services for Sharp healthcare, connected a number of patients to the event, and said both volunteers and participants benefit from the experience.

“Some of them say it’s a life-changing experience, because they never thought they would have the opportunity to do something like this,” Brown said. “They’re all inspirational. It humbles you, the courage, what these people do. They don’t let anything stop them.”

Like other participants, Molina-Corona said getting in the ocean was exhilarating and liberating.

“You’re no longer stuck in a chair,” she said. “You’re not confined to anything.”

She’s determined to keep pushing her limits. This year she tried surfing on a board without rails, and without anyone guiding her board. She’s looking into other opportunities for adaptive surfing in San Diego, but still plans to return to this event year after year.

“I will always look forward to Life Rolls On, because it’s like a family,” she said.

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deborah.brennan@sduniontribune.com Twitter@deborahsbrennan