Beloved 'old-school' Bergen restaurant celebrates 35 years of service

Thirty-five years ago, three immigrants in pursuit of the American dream opened an Italian restaurant. The trio — Manuel Moreira, Lino Queirolo and Paolo Gilberto — called the spot Nanni Ristorante. The year was 1988.

Nanni continues to thrive as one of Rochelle Park's most beloved restaurants. Under Moreira, now 75, customers say, the 155-seat, white-tablecloth spot is as strong as ever.

And — as the restaurant has just celebrated its 35th trip around the sun (which isn't an easy feat in an industry where the average life span of a business is about eight years) — New Jersey state Sen. Holly Schepisi is soon headed to its 53 West Passaic St. home to honor Moreira and his contributions to the local community.

Honoring 35 years of traditional Italian fare

"Thursday," said Robert Moreira, son of Manuel, "Senator Schepisi and two former mayors will be here to recognize my dad and deliver a commemorative award for his 35 years in the restaurant industry."

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As the sole owner now — Queirolo and Gilberto have since died — Manny (as his regulars call him) "has been the most important piece of the puzzle in keeping the restaurant alive," his son said. "His commitment and dedication are what allows Nanni to continue to be successful."

A celebrity in Rochelle Park, Manny, who used to work as a personal chef for Frank Sinatra, spends every day at his restaurant. Since day one, he has worked "every role in the house," and he knows each of his regular customers by name. Through weddings, funerals, graduations and more, locals have made Manny and Nanni a part of their lives.

"I got introduced to this place 35 years ago from my colleagues," longtime customer Michael Petriella said. "And now it's my go-to place. I've eaten more meals here than any other restaurant; my daughter even had her rehearsal dinner here. Nanni's is a restaurant you can count on — the atmosphere is congenial and the food is excellent."

Birth of a Rochelle Park institution

Manny Moreira, Queirolo and Gilberto opened Nanni Ristorante after leaving now-shuttered Archer's, once one of the most well-known restaurants in the region and among its most expensive. Moreira and Queirolo worked as maître d's, and Gilberto was a chef. After seeing a nearby property go up for sale, however, the trio decided to launch a similarly elegant restaurant, but with simple Italian dishes at more affordable prices.

Even after the death of his business partners (Queirolo died during the COVID pandemic), Moreira has kept the restaurant running as always. From the '80s to today, loyal customers say, the place has barely changed.

"Nanni opened the same month my wife and I got married," said Mike Marino, a longtime patron, "and we've been coming all 35 years. The main thing about a restaurant is consistency, and Nanni is very consistent. Over the years, we've had the same few chefs and waiters."

Michael Petriella couldn't agree more.

"Nanni's got a very predictable environment," he said, "with consistent cuisine and quality. Since the '80s, it hasn't changed a bit."

With few exceptions — takeout is now available, and reservations can be made on Open Table — the restaurant still feels like a step into the past. "It has always kept its old-school charm," Robert Moreira said. "Even the food is the same."

And as for that food? Think veal osso bucco with risotto, rack of lamb and Manny's favorite fish, salmon in a house-made mustard sauce.

"The pasta here is really good," said Mikki Swartz, a 25-year patron. "Not one particular pasta, but pastas in general. As far as restaurants go, Nanni's is the whole package."

Preserving a local culinary staple

Throughout the years, Nanni Ristorante has powered through, despite economic downturns, 9/11, Superstorm Sandy and COVID (the restaurant lost 95% of its business during the pandemic). The reason for its longevity?

"We do things right here," Manny said. "We make simple food, but we use good-quality products. That is how Italian food should be, and I'm here every day to handle that for the customer."

As the years advance, however, Robert Moreira worries that the longtime staff of Nanni will soon begin to move on from its elegant, throwback space. With waiters nearing retirement and their dad in the twilight of his career, he and his brother, Christopher — whom he has enlisted to help him preserve the restaurant — have started preparing for a not-too-distant changing of the guard.

"My brother and I have been trying to adapt and learn to make sure Nanni will stay exactly the way it is now, even after the current staff leave," Moreira said. Six of the restaurant's present employees, he explained, have been at the spot since its 1988 beginnings.

"In a way, then,” Moreira continued, “We're not just holding this ceremony to celebrate the 35 years we've had; we want to tell everyone we're going to be here for another 35."

So, when Manny Moreira hangs his commemorative plaque next week, he'd best leave space on the wall for the next one.

Kara VanDooijeweert is a food writer for NorthJersey.com and The Record. If you can't find her in Jersey's best restaurants, she's probably off running a race course in the mountains. Catch her on Instagram:@karanicolev &@northjerseyeats, join ourNorthJerseyEats Facebook group, and sign up for herNorth Jersey Eats newsletter.