Guardians of The Lambsfoot!

Keith, let me just say that I've been there and tried that. :D

I enjoy a cigar every now and then, and although my personal preference for cigar storage and humidification is less attractive than the nice wood humidors, it is (in my opinion) more consistent and reliable. I use locking Tupperware-type boxes (made by a company called Lock-n-Lock); the lids have a rubber gasket and latches on all four sides that lock it down tight. Inside those I have cigar boxes with the tops removed in which I store my cigars, and I use Boveda two-way humidity control packets for humidification (I prefer the 65% packets).

Now perhaps storing a horn-handled knife in there from the start might keep the horn from from shrinking, but I can say from experience with my first horn Lambsfoot that even several months in the humidor won't do anything in the way of "rehydrating" or reversing the shrinking of the horn. I'm keeping a close eye on my Guardians Lambsfoot; if it shows signs any new signs of shrinking, I may just move it in with the cigars to see if it works as a preventative measure.

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(Of course, storing a knife with a carbon steel blade in a humid environment like would create a completely different concern. :confused:)

Cool pic Barrett :) Be careful you don't end up with a load of cigars that taste of old horn though! :eek: :confused: ;) :thumbsup:
 
Cool pic Barrett :) Be careful you don't end up with a load of cigars that taste of old horn though! :eek: :confused: ;) :thumbsup:

I certainly wouldn't put it in with the good ones! :D (Honestly, if I were going to try it out in earnest, I'd probably use a new Boveda packet -- they only cost a couple bucks -- in a completely separate airtight container. When I tested it out for a few months with my first A. Wright, I put it in an overflow humidor that only contained a few packs of cheap, flavored "rustic" cigars that I got free when I ordered some cigars online.)
 
I certainly wouldn't put it in with the good ones! :D (Honestly, if I were going to try it out in earnest, I'd probably use a new Boveda packet -- they only cost a couple bucks -- in a completely separate airtight container. When I tested it out for a few months with my first A. Wright, I put it in an overflow humidor that only contained a few packs of cheap, flavored "rustic" cigars that I got free when I ordered some cigars online.)

Definitely not! :D I hope that, between us all here, we can come up with a solution to the problem though my friend :thumbsup:
 
I'm really enjoying the discussions about sharpening and horn shrinkage, although I don't have the skills or knowledge to contribute to either topic. :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:

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I call this picture "Lamb at Sunset":D
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Thank you again Jack (mrknife)
Paul, you have some Big Sky up your way!! :cool::cool: And the Guardian Lambsfoot rocks! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

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That sounds idyllic GT :) Thanks for all the kind words my friend, I share your thoughts on Paul's rehab :) Superb pics of your Guardian and its companion sheath :thumbsup:
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Before I saw the Super Duper Horn, ram's Horn (or sheep's horn) would have been my first choice for covers. Wright's had some qualms about working with it though, based on their past experience. Like all horn it has imperfections in it, and with ram's horn this can apparently lead to a layer flaking off, which can spoil the looks of a near-finished knife. This is not so much a problem with custom knives, since they're priced a lot higher, and the handles on a fixed-blade can be replaced more quickly than on a folder, but with folders, the knife would have to be rebuilt or scrapped. It's something I'd still like to consider though, and would like to maybe get some samples of finished horn scales from the US (since nobody does them here) :thumbsup:
Thanks for the kind words, Jack, as well as for your shepherd's pie memories. :):thumbsup: Regarding Wright's reluctance to work with ram's horn, my limited experience can confirm the potential flaking problem. I have several inexpensive Marbles knives with ram's horn covers, and one of them has quite substantial flaking on one side. I'm still trying to decide whether I should attempt to sand off the flakes to improve the situation.
nSLzzYx.jpg


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There might still be a few strays, but think I rounded up most of them ;) :thumbsup:

View attachment 788983

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That's an impressive flock of lambs, Jack!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool: More than two dozen fascinating examples! Are you willing to provide more details about the fifth knife down in the left column, please? (The one with wood handles and a big flat bolster, almost Barlow-ish.) I think I'd enjoy a weekly feature in the Guardians thread describing a different of your lambsfoot knives each time (Jack's Lambsfoot Journeys :D).

I've been enjoying the discussion about sharpening. I may be in the minority, but I prefer my edges a bit more acute and have my Buffalo Lambsfoot (they standard one) set up with what's probably in the range of 28-32 degrees inclusive. The larger visible bevel is perhaps not as attractive to some in photos, but, let me tell, you it flies through cardboard and similar utility cutting challenges and also does a fantastic job opening package and slicing limes.

I freehand sharpen a lot of my blades, but getting down to that angle on the lambsfoot blade takes some time, so I used a KME sharpening system to make sure I did a consistent job. Since doing that I've only ever had to strop it, but, after all this talk of sharpening, I think I might give it a touch up this afternoon with the fine stones.
Greg, I agree with you on the desirability of more acute edges. :thumbsup: Most of my knives that I think are my better cutters tend to have wider bevels. Another benefit of the wider bevels for me, given my limited sharpening skills, is that it's easier for me to "hit the edge" and hold the proper angle with the wider bevels.

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Thanks Paul! :D The Indian Government's export ban on sambar stag has hit the Sheffield cutlers real hard, but occasionally they manage to get hold of some, and I was lucky enough to come across a few nice examples while visiting the factory. Here's the pile side of the one I'm carrying today :) :thumbsup:

View attachment 789540

I also got this one, which is slightly smaller :thumbsup:

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Ron has a couple of nice ones too :) :thumbsup:
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I missed the Lambsfoot Stan Shaw made for me! :eek: :rolleyes: :D
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Thanks to you my friend!! ;):D
Jack and Ron, your stag lambsfoot examples are outstanding!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool::thumbsup:

Forgive me for showing off my new knife again (thanks, mrknife). Guardian Lambsfoot on the rocks! :D:thumbsup:
OVuCK2P.jpg


KKmQM5H.jpg


- GT
 
I'm really enjoying the discussions about sharpening and horn shrinkage, although I don't have the skills or knowledge to contribute to either topic. :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Paul, you have some Big Sky up your way!! :cool::cool: And the Guardian Lambsfoot rocks! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks for the kind words, Jack, as well as for your shepherd's pie memories. :):thumbsup: Regarding Wright's reluctance to work with ram's horn, my limited experience can confirm the potential flaking problem. I have several inexpensive Marbles knives with ram's horn covers, and one of them has quite substantial flaking on one side. I'm still trying to decide whether I should attempt to sand off the flakes to improve the situation.
nSLzzYx.jpg



That's an impressive flock of lambs, Jack!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool: More than two dozen fascinating examples! Are you willing to provide more details about the fifth knife down in the left column, please? (The one with wood handles and a big flat bolster, almost Barlow-ish.) I think I'd enjoy a weekly feature in the Guardians thread describing a different of your lambsfoot knives each time (Jack's Lambsfoot Journeys :D).


Greg, I agree with you on the desirability of more acute edges. :thumbsup: Most of my knives that I think are my better cutters tend to have wider bevels. Another benefit of the wider bevels for me, given my limited sharpening skills, is that it's easier for me to "hit the edge" and hold the proper angle with the wider bevels.






Jack and Ron, your stag lambsfoot examples are outstanding!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool::thumbsup:

Forgive me for showing off my new knife again (thanks, mrknife). Guardian Lambsfoot on the rocks! :D:thumbsup:
OVuCK2P.jpg


KKmQM5H.jpg


- GT
Very nice Lambfoot Gt !!!!! I don't think that I would sand down the Ramshorn . I would just look at the flaking off as Natural Beauty Marks .
 
I'm really enjoying the discussions about sharpening and horn shrinkage, although I don't have the skills or knowledge to contribute to either topic. :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Paul, you have some Big Sky up your way!! :cool::cool: And the Guardian Lambsfoot rocks! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks for the kind words, Jack, as well as for your shepherd's pie memories. :):thumbsup: Regarding Wright's reluctance to work with ram's horn, my limited experience can confirm the potential flaking problem. I have several inexpensive Marbles knives with ram's horn covers, and one of them has quite substantial flaking on one side. I'm still trying to decide whether I should attempt to sand off the flakes to improve the situation.
nSLzzYx.jpg



That's an impressive flock of lambs, Jack!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool: More than two dozen fascinating examples! Are you willing to provide more details about the fifth knife down in the left column, please? (The one with wood handles and a big flat bolster, almost Barlow-ish.) I think I'd enjoy a weekly feature in the Guardians thread describing a different of your lambsfoot knives each time (Jack's Lambsfoot Journeys :D).


Greg, I agree with you on the desirability of more acute edges. :thumbsup: Most of my knives that I think are my better cutters tend to have wider bevels. Another benefit of the wider bevels for me, given my limited sharpening skills, is that it's easier for me to "hit the edge" and hold the proper angle with the wider bevels.






Jack and Ron, your stag lambsfoot examples are outstanding!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool::thumbsup:

Forgive me for showing off my new knife again (thanks, mrknife). Guardian Lambsfoot on the rocks! :D:thumbsup:
OVuCK2P.jpg


KKmQM5H.jpg


- GT

you are most welcome, glad you enjoy it!
 
Thanks for the kind words, Jack, as well as for your shepherd's pie memories. :):thumbsup: Regarding Wright's reluctance to work with ram's horn, my limited experience can confirm the potential flaking problem. I have several inexpensive Marbles knives with ram's horn covers, and one of them has quite substantial flaking on one side. I'm still trying to decide whether I should attempt to sand off the flakes to improve the situation.
nSLzzYx.jpg



That's an impressive flock of lambs, Jack!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool: More than two dozen fascinating examples! Are you willing to provide more details about the fifth knife down in the left column, please? (The one with wood handles and a big flat bolster, almost Barlow-ish.) I think I'd enjoy a weekly feature in the Guardians thread describing a different of your lambsfoot knives each time (Jack's Lambsfoot Journeys :D).


Greg, I agree with you on the desirability of more acute edges. :thumbsup: Most of my knives that I think are my better cutters tend to have wider bevels. Another benefit of the wider bevels for me, given my limited sharpening skills, is that it's easier for me to "hit the edge" and hold the proper angle with the wider bevels.






Jack and Ron, your stag lambsfoot examples are outstanding!! :eek::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool::thumbsup:

Forgive me for showing off my new knife again (thanks, mrknife). Guardian Lambsfoot on the rocks! :D:thumbsup:
OVuCK2P.jpg


KKmQM5H.jpg


- GT

Shepherd's Pie seems appropriate for the Guardian's thread GT! :D Thanks for sharing your photo and experience of Marbles ram's horn. I recently picked up one of the ram's horn Barlows. It's a nice enough, but the horn isn't quite what I'm looking for. I like the look of this exterior sheep horn, but would need to see what it looked like on a knife :thumbsup:

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Thanks for the compliment, and please keep showing your Guardians knife, I love the way those pics show the fine lines of the different layers of horn :thumbsup:

Good morning, Guardians. I hope everyone is well.

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Dylan, you are doing an amazing job of capturing the beauty of the horn on that knife :thumbsup:
 
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Dylan, you are doing an amazing job of capturing the beauty of the horn on that knife :thumbsup:

Thank you, Jack. I've been trying! I didn't realize that photographing horn would present such challenges. There is a lot of depth and nuance to horn that can be difficult to capture in a picture so I can only hope that at least some of its character shines through.

Some random thoughts on sheep or ram horn: I actually love the material and I think it would be a fitting cover for a Lambfoot knife. That being said, I priced some of the material not too long ago and it isn't cheap, and I guess from a production standpoint, it presents its difficulties as well. So I can understand a cutler having some reservations in regards to working with it.

The recent run of modern Barlows that CollectorKnives did with Lion Steel exhibited some stunning Ram's Horn specimens with a great variety of "grain", waves, color, etc. and I think those knives are a good testament to what can be accomplished with that material. However, they are considerably more expensive than your average Lambfoot knife, though it probably has more to do with the steel used and the production versus just their choice of cover materials.

I'd love to see a Lambfoot dressed up in Ram's Horn one of these days and honestly, if a cutler was willing to work with it, I know I wouldn't be too put off by an increased price tag.
 
Thank you, Jack. I've been trying! I didn't realize that photographing horn would present such challenges. There is a lot of depth and nuance to horn that can be difficult to capture in a picture so I can only hope that at least some of its character shines through.


Some random thoughts on sheep or ram horn: I actually love the material and I think it would be a fitting cover for a Lambfoot knife. That being said, I priced some of the material not too long ago and it isn't cheap, and I guess from a production standpoint, it presents its difficulties as well. So I can understand a cutler having some reservations in regards to working with it.


The recent run of modern Barlows that CollectorKnives did with Lion Steel exhibited some stunning Ram's Horn specimens with a great variety of "grain", waves, color, etc. and I think those knives are a good testament to what can be accomplished with that material. However, they are considerably more expensive than your average Lambfoot knife, though it probably has more to do with the steel used and the production versus just their choice of cover materials.


I'd love to see a Lambfoot dressed up in Ram's Horn one of these days and honestly, if a cutler was willing to work with it, I know I wouldn't be too put off by an increased price tag.


You're doing great Dylan :) I know what you mean though, everytime I photograph mine, the horn seems a different colour, and sometimes with plainer horn, it can just look dull, I really struggle to capture it accurately :thumbsup:


Thanks for sharing your thoughts on Ram's Horn :) One of the other Sheffield firms, Taylor's Eye Witness, use it on their Barlow knives, but these are custom knives made for TEW, with a high price tag. The horn looks beautiful, but it is polished inner Ram’s Horn, rather than the exterior horn.
 
Wow those Lamb foots shown are simply BEAUTIFUL!!!
Just following the discussion on knives - be it Horn or Stag I remembered talking to Charlie about Humidifier storage and Charlie did say that Stag Knives tend to ” potato Chip/ peel” in those conditions. ( oh boy I hope I described that ok? ) .

I’m taking that Stag and Horn are very much the same organic material grown from the body of the animal?
Rams Horn in particular grows in a pattern where it would more easily flake? Because of the wavy nature?
 
When I find old horn, it can often look rather lacklustre at first, almost like old wood. Stag on the other hand, seems to look better and better with age. That's here though of course, and nobody ever accused Yorkshire of being 'arid'! :eek: :D :thumbsup:
 
Great to see this thread so active, there's been some excellent discussion points brought up too - seems I have a bit of catching up to do.

Wow those Lamb foots shown are simply BEAUTIFUL!!!
Just following the discussion on knives - be it Horn or Stag I remembered talking to Charlie about Humidifier storage and Charlie did say that Stag Knives tend to ” potato Chip/ peel” in those conditions. ( oh boy I hope I described that ok? ) .

I’m taking that Stag and Horn are very much the same organic material grown from the body of the animal?
Rams Horn in particular grows in a pattern where it would more easily flake? Because of the wavy nature?

Stag antlers and cattle and sheep horn actually have some interesting differences, Duncan.

Antlers are exclusive to cervids - the deer family. They grow and are cast off annually. The antlers are initially covered with living tissue - the 'velvet' - which transports blood and nutrients to the bony core. The blood vessels are so loaded with calcium, that they eventually narrow and close, as the antlers grow and harden. This causes the itching and discomfort that stags relieve by thrashing and scraping the remnant threads of velvet off on saplings and small trees. All other things being equal, the stags' antlers will increase in size each year, until they reach a peak - which for Sambar occurs around 10-12 years of age - and then they will 'go back', the antlers becoming smaller or misshapen and malformed in subsequent years.

Some interesting things, not commonly known about deer antler:

As well as reflecting the age and genetics of the animal, the antlers reflect the quality of feed (or lack of it) from two years earlier, not the previous season. This was very evident after the devastating Black Saturday bushfires here in Victoria. Although many Sambar deer and other wild animals died in the fires, two years later, there were many superb antlered Sambar being seen and taken by hunters, due to the minerals deposited in the soil and new plant growth.

If a stag receives an injury or has a malady on one side of it's body, the antler on the opposite side of it's head will be misshapen, the next time it grows. Antlers do not contain keratin.

It has recently been found that antlers - specifically moose antlers - may also act as parabolic antennae of a sort, cupping and capturing sound waves.

C6aTml3.jpg


Horn on the other hand, is a permanent structure of keratin and proteins over a bony core. They are not shed like deer antlers, and true horns are generally found on cattle, sheep, goats and antelope. I understand the translucent horn that is prized for knife scales is the young material, near the base of the horn.

Horn, like tortoiseshell, is slightly thermoplastic - it can be shaped while warm, although it can apparently display a tendency to 'want' to return to it's previous curved shape over time. For this reason, I didn't wash my Guardians knife in warm, soapy water as I usually do with new traditional knives. I've been looking over various internet tips on maintaining horn, given it's been used for many years for knife handles, walking stick handles and ferrules, ornaments etc. I can't really add anything to the good advice already given, so in summary, this seems to be the consensus:

Like wood, remember this was an active, living material, and will continue to act in that way in response to environmental conditions. So don't leave it in direct sunlight for long periods, check it fairly regularly, if you are not intending to carry or use it, and periodically remoisturise it. I've used mineral oil fairly freely on mine, then later a couple of coats of a beeswax and hard carnauba oil mix to lock in the moisture. I'll probably repeat this process every month or so, for a while. Interestingly, considering we have discussed Ren wax for horn before, it is apparently not recommended for this material, as it also contains a solvent, which supposedly can hasten drying. I think I will look for some Lanox, or Hooflex to use eventually, instead of mineral oil. Jojoba oil, is apparently also recommended as it does not go rancid, like some other vegetable oils. Also, as r8shell said, it's actually a good thing for the longevity of the horn covers to be continually handled and used, and absorb warmth and moisture from your hand.

Regarding sheep horn, I think there's a big difference between domestic sheep horn, which is probably not used much as a premium handle material for a reason, and wild sheep horn. I understand that in the US, when 'sheep' horn is referred to as a handle material on custom knives, it is probably from one of the four American wild sheep species. Considering the tremendous impacts taken by this horn when you see these sheep sparring, I wouldn't be surprised if it is in another order of strength and toughness, compared to domestic rams' horn, as a handle material. I once asked the owner of Blade Gallery and Epicurean Edge in Seattle, what he would recommend for a super tough hunting knife handle, and he said 'sheep horn', without skipping a beat. I was surprised at this choice, and questioned him further - and he said that the interlocking growth layers formed a supremely tough material.

Personally, I'm a big fan of the ebony handled Lambsfoot knives, as you all probably guessed - it's an extremely durable and attractive material, to me. I'd love to see some of that intensely marbled ebony, similar to those superb examples Lambertiana showed, in a Lambsfoot some day…

(I should also say that given the long, hot summers and occasionally damp winters here in southern Australia, my Ox horn Lambsfoot has been fine, as long as I've continued moisturising it.)

bfPeo5P.jpg
 
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Great to see this thread so active, there's been some excellent discussion points brought up too - seems I have a bit of catching up to do.



Stag antlers and cattle and sheep horn actually have some interesting differences, Duncan.

Antlers are exclusive to cervids - the deer family. They grow and are cast off annually. The antlers are initially covered with living tissue - the 'velvet' - which transports blood and nutrients to the bony core. The blood vessels are so loaded with calcium, that they eventually narrow and close, as the antlers grow and harden. This causes the itching and discomfort that stags relieve by thrashing and scraping the remnant threads of velvet off on saplings and small trees. All other things being equal, the stags' antlers will increase in size each year, until they reach a peak - which for Sambar occurs around 10-12 years of age - and then they will 'go back', the antlers becoming smaller or misshapen and malformed in subsequent years.

Some interesting things, not commonly known about deer antler. As well as reflecting the age and genetics of the animal, the antlers reflect the quality of feed (or lack of it) from two years earlier, not the previous season. This was very evident after the devastating Black Saturday bushfires here in Victoria. Although many Sambar deer and other wild animals died in the fires, two years later, there were many superb antlered Sambar being seen and taken by hunters, due to the minerals deposited in the soil and new plant growth.
If a stag receives an injury or has a malady on one side of it's body, the antler on the opposite side of it's head will be misshapen, the next time it grows. Antlers do not contain keratin.

It has recently been found that antlers - specifically moose antlers - may also act as parabolic antennae of a sort, cupping and capturing sound waves.

C6aTml3.jpg


Horn on the other hand, is a permanent structure of keratin and proteins over a bony core. They are not shed like deer antlers, and true horns are generally found on cattle, sheep, goats and antelope. I understand the translucent horn that is prized for knife scales is the young material, near the base of the horn.

Horn, like tortoiseshell, is slightly thermoplastic - it can be shaped while warm, although it can apparently display a tendency to 'want' to return to it's previous curved shape over time. For this reason, I didn't wash my Guardians knife in warm, soapy water as I usually do with new traditional knives. I've been looking over various internet tips on maintaining horn, given it's been used for many years for knife handles, walking stick handles and ferrules, ornaments etc. I can't really add anything to the good advice already given, so in summary, this seems to be the consensus:

Like wood, remember this was an active, living material, and will continue to act in that way in response to environmental conditions. So don't leave it in direct sunlight for long periods, check it fairly regularly, if you are not intending to carry or use it, and periodically remoisturise it. I've used mineral oil fairly freely on mine, then later a couple of coats of a beeswax and hard carnauba oil mix to lock in the moisture. I'll probably repeat this process every month or so, for a while. Interestingly, considering we have discussed Ren wax for horn before, it is apparently not recommended for this material, as it also contains a solvent, which supposedly can hasten drying. I think I will look for some Lanox, or Hooflex to use eventually, instead of mineral oil. Jojoba oil, is apparently also recommended as it does not go rancid, like some other vegetable oils. Also, as r8shell said, it's actually a good thing for the longevity of the horn covers to be continually handled and used, and absorb warmth and moisture from your hand.

Regarding sheep horn, I think there's a big difference between domestic sheep horn, which is probably not used much as a premium handle material for a reason, and wild sheep horn. I understand that in the US, when 'sheep' horn is referred to as a handle material on custom knives, it is probably from one of the four American wild sheep species. Considering the tremendous impacts taken by this horn when you see these sheep sparring, I wouldn't be surprised if it is in another order of strength and toughness, compared to domestic rams' horn, as a handle material. I once asked the owner of Blade Gallery and Epicurean Edge in Seattle, what he would recommend for a super tough hunting knife handle, and he said 'sheep horn', without skipping a beat. I was surprised at this choice, and questioned him further - and he said that the interlocking growth layers formed a supremely tough material.

Personally, I'm a big fan of the ebony handled Lambsfoot knives, as you all probably guessed - it's an extremely durable material. I'd love to see some of that intensely marbled ebony, similar to those superb examples Lambertiana showed in a Lambsfoot, some day…

(I should also say that given the long, hot summers and occasionally damp winters here in southern Australia, my Ox horn Lambsfoot has been fine, as long as I've continued moisturising it.)

bfPeo5P.jpg
Fantastic post Cambertree! Thanks for all the info.
 
Fantastic post Cambertree! Thanks for all the info.

Thank you my friend.:)

I'm glad to see you like your A. Wright Lambsfoot. I'd be very interested to see some more pics of your Lambsfoot knife out in Taipei, and the Taiwanese countryside, if you should get a chance.:thumbsup::)
 
Great stuff Chin and a lot of sense too.

I remember soon after joining here, a discussion with Bernard Levine about horn. From what I recall, he showed an English knife from the 1820s in excellent shape, displaying no shrink or warp. I noted that modern day horn knives seem unable to emulate this. He too was puzzled by it and suspected that there may well have been techiques in curing horn that have now unfortunately been lost. Rather along the lines of Walrus hides on wheels for crocus finish. Another possibility, it seems to me, may be extinct breeds of cattle-very different from our modern day herds, which yielded superior horn, or even the amount of drugs&hormones given to latter day cattle impacting on horn quality?

Nevertheless, my limited experience shows me that relative humidity is an absolute key-factor. If certain branches can detect water as in divining, then horn can quickly detect lack of moisture in the air. Stag and bone don't fancy dry air much either but they tolerate it much better than horn which is intolerant. Here in the Arctic (Finland) the air becomes extremely dry outdoors as the temperature drops into the big minuses, meanwhile indoors is usually about 22c in homes and workplaces, shirtsleeves or less and that too is dry under 10%. it's no use turning the heat down or opening the window as more cold dry air enters. Much like in desert climes. The type of building can impact too, an old wooden house like I have in the country breathes more and is damper naturally so I keep the horns out there in winter-time as the relative humidity is higher. Modern houses or blocks of flats are always drier, bad news for horn!:eek:

I use a humidifier at home and in the office at work, so quite a lot of litres of water get pumped out a day. I find I seldom have sore throats or colds, less dry eyes and the natural knives and furniture appreciate it. An old Laguiole I have which was bought nearly 30 years ago and I think had been in the shop a good 10 is horn and this too dislikes dry, you can feel the liners appear when it's dry. It swells back if you get 25% or more humidity. I've found Coconut Oil a good moisturizer for knives and it makes the handles look great too. Of course, CARRYING a horn knife helps keep it hydrated as your sweat does it a treat:D
 
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