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buffaloj0e

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I bought a PS1 Namco Stick the other day with the thoughts of wiring it up for db15 to use with my HAS. After searching the net for a while it seems that particular stick has quite the following that like to keep them original. I couldn't find much recent info, most of it is quite old, so I thought I would see if anyone here would chime in.

As they are getting on I assumed I would replace the stick and buttons, there are some tricks to keep the original circuit board but I run straight db15 I can probably just put that to the side and save it for later. I have seen conflicting reports on fitting LS32 sticks but I am sure upon inspection I can determine their suitability.

I would consider adding USB support are there any alternatives to the MC Cthulu board, although I think space will be the limiting factor.

I don't have my heart set on that particular stick I was attracted to it as there isn't many 6 button layouts like that with small start and select (coin) buttons.

Thanks for you opinions.
 
An alternative to modding the stick would be to use a Tototek adapter from PSX to Neo Geo:

http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=50

I'm still waiting for mine to arrive in the mail, but I assume it's as good as their other offerings. I own the MD, SFC and PCE ones and they're all lag free and work a treat.

That Namco Stick is definitely my favourite stick on the shelf of many, I got both different models too. I wouldn't bother changing the sticks or buttons, they're pretty nice stock. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks @djsheep that’s a simple solution to a problem I was over thinking. Can’t wait to try it out.
 
The buttons are great, the stick...meh, lube the bejesus out of it, it does get better but the nylon housing them proprietary Hori sticks have are semi-decent, you can definitely improve it.


NPC-102 Namco Joystick 1996…2018 JLF Install.
I had to mod the stick a bit, starting by drilling the joystick base a bit where the bolts line up, I did it in order to use the base as is (keeping it stock) and be as close to the top as possible in order to keep the bottom from scraping at all.
I also did some snipping of the sides where the bolts can mount on certain applicatiopns, just so it could fit in the enclosure without hacking the case.
The tabs for the square gate needed to be a bit shorter and one of the leg clips that hold the gate also needed to be trimmed. Do not cut all the way as you will ruin the integrity of the stick BTW.
The shaft is Namco stock which fits nicely. The actuator needed to be cut and I used the Namco actuator for sizing. I could have used the Namco actuator which I tried and although it provides a shorter throw I’m honestly not too thrilled about the nylon material.
Finnally the spring, the Namco spring is too loose, it’s nice for some but too loosey goosey for me, the sanwa spring way to stiff in this case with the shorter shaft (at least for me), so I opted for a Tekken 5 spring, stiff like seimitsu but clean travel and contact like sanwa 'cause it’s all basically sanwa anyway.
The results are excellent, proper height, no different than stock height. Looks superb, no alteraions to the case which was my main concern and a bit stiffer than stock JLF, almost like a 1.5lb spring which I could have installed but I’m happy with how it came out.
Played some KOF’99 on PSX with glorious results, corner juggles extravaganza, charging Robah FTMW, didn’t feel lost, didn’t feel cheated like I did when playing it stock, lol.

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I absolutely love the stock standard stick in the Namco PS1 stick. That was my go to for a very long time...
 
That was a lot of people go to stick for a very long time, same with the DC Agetec, 360 Hori EX2, the list goes on and on when it comes to semi-decent sticks that we all have used well and enjoyed, but at some point after playing with actual arcade hardware and being able to acquire it, it's only natural to go back to our past and make it better.
 
Right on.

What I am saying though. Is the actual stick on that Namco is my favourite stick for shmups. Even to this day.
 
I always thought I was a Sanwa JFL guy, but that Seimitsu LS32 has really grown on me.
I think it maybe my new fave stick!
 
Right on.

What I am saying though. Is the actual stick on that Namco is my favourite stick for shmups. Even to this day.
Your favorite stick for shmups? OK good for you but nah...I got 2, kept one stock because I do like the lever and there's sentimental value there, still prefer the JLF mod though. In a perfect world, I could fit an LS62 in there smooth and have the best short throw stick you can get. However I wanted to be able to revert everything back to stock without altering the shell. Notice I didn't change the buttons, I desoldered them in order to clean them well, part of me wanted to set different switches (was leaning towards sanwa) but I really like the buttons to this day just like you like the lever, although these buttons are actually boss, PS14Gs eat your heart out. Glad it works for you so nicely though.

@OP, if looking into conversion, the brook PS2 to PS3-4 works great, there's also a Neo. Plenty of other good converters out there, some even used in tournament play, inPinn for 360, tototek you already know, Total Control for DC, etc. PS2 Hori PCBs have a very good compatibility rate with these adapters, the same can't be said about all brands so keep that in mind.

On the other hand, if looking for that SIX BUTTON MASTER RACE feel, I suggest the Virtua Stick High Grade, truly the best button layout ever designed although the button configuration is a bit odd, Sega being Sega I guess. Two things, an LS32 will be just as hard to mount in there as it will be on a Namco stick, heavily modifications to the CP will ensue if that's what you want from it. The second thing is, the PCB in there is not that great, there is lag on simultaneous button presses, some profess no such thing exists but they're only fooling themselves. I suggest a multi PCB or a Six Axis Adapter and then a brook PS3 to PS4, completely wireless! Keep in mind space inside is limited but once done you'll have the best stick money can buy.

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Eventually I will change the buttons to Seimitsu PS14Gs, with a kowal gate I might be able to experiment fitting some LS series levers but JLF is doing the job just fine for now.
 
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I have been using a set of these for playing local sets with folks weekly for the last 5 years. Only in the last 2 years did I bother to replace the buttons (2nd gen Sanwa silent) and mess around with the stick.

Here is what I found:
1) Stock spring is a keeper. 1.5lb Paradise spring is too stiff and stock JLF is too loose. Stock Namco top Springer holder is the only one that works properly. A JLF one can be used if cut down to size.
2) Pivot from a JLF is exactly the same. Swap if worn. Grease goes here.
3) Silicone grease made a huge improvement over whatever old stuff was in there.
4) An oversized actuator can be used, you just have to hacksaw it down. Same deal with shaft covers. File sand after cutting a tiny bit less than needed. This is irrelevant for the most part after point 6.
5) Non-lever Omron switches seem to be the only ones that fit the housing. I used V-152-3A5 levered switches that I removed the lever from (drilled out rivets). Perfect tension.
6) Oddly, the biggest improvement in cutting out the dead zone was from adding the JLF washer that sits above the top spring holder. This alone is the best improvement you make to the stick. Dirt cheap and feels so much better in terms of stick return (dashing).

Everyone I play with now can use these sticks and don't have much of an issue. Was the not the case before. I love them personally and after the JLF washer addition, they are absolutely the best stick I have used.

I suggest not swapping the stick, but an LS-33 is the only one that will fit with minimal modification and keep the same overall feel. Time better spent on other shit IMO.
 
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Only in the last 2 years did I bother to replace the buttons (2nd gen Sanwa silent) and mess around with the stick.
How did you adapt the Sanwa buttons to the PCB? Did you have to run wires from the button terminals to the PCB?
 
Yes. I just wrapped the pcb in an anti static bag (thick gray type) and put it at an angle where one screw for the base plate goes through the corner of the bag. Pcb doesn't move as there is no room inside.

I had to bend the terminals for the buttons 90 degrees so they are flat. Only way to get everything to fit. Been about a year now. No issues.
 
Yes. I just wrapped the pcb in an anti static bag (thick gray type) and put it at an angle where one screw for the base plate goes through the corner of the bag. Pcb doesn't move as there is no room inside.

I had to bend the terminals for the buttons 90 degrees so they are flat. Only way to get everything to fit. Been about a year now. No issues.
Thanks for that. Might go that route too but I haven’t decided if I want to replace buttons just yet.
 
Small update on this after some trial and error.

- Zippy microswitches are absolutely wonderful for these. Especially if you play shmups. Corners are close to perfect and I like this far better than the JLF or LS-62 with a square gate. I experimented with a lot of different types and these are far my favorite.
- Oversized JLF actuator can be cut down and filed to remove much of the deadzone. Model is floating around online. I initially didn't care for this but paired with the Zippy switches, it is a must.
- I had mentioned adding the missing JLF washer between the spring holder and the joystick base but did not mess with springs beyond the standard JLF, which I only liked with much softer switches. Instead, try the LS-32 spring. Combined with the Zippy switches, I feel like is the perfect stick. I can play SF or shmups and I am very happy with inputs on both. Could never go back to stock.

I would put this in my cabs if I could salvage and mount the parts. I like them that much.
 
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Instead, try the LS-32 spring. Combined with the Zippy switches, I feel like is the perfect stick. I can play SF or shmups and I am very happy with inputs on both. Could never go back to stock.
Okay, now I have to try this combination. Thanks for the update.
 
Small update on this after some trial and error.

- Zippy microswitches are absolutely wonderful for these. Especially if you play shmups. Corners are close to perfect and I like this far better than the JLF or LS-62 with a square gate. I experimented with a lot of different types and these are far my favorite.
- Oversized JLF actuator can be cut down and filed to remove much of the deadzone. Model is floating around online. I initially didn't care for this but paired with the Zippy switches, it is a must.
- I had mentioned adding the missing JLF washer between the spring holder and the joystick base but did not mess with springs beyond the standard JLF, which I only liked with much softer switches. Instead, try the LS-32 spring. Combined with the Zippy switches, I feel like is the perfect stick. I can play SF or shmups and I am very happy with inputs on both. Could never go back to stock.

I would put this in my cabs if I could salvage and mount the parts. I like them that much.
Thank you for the guide and for the update. I've been meaning to mod my Namco Stick for years. Its joystick's gates are worn down along with thea actuator. I've been trying to figure out how to revive its joystick or put a LS32 in. I'll try to revive the stock joystick instead.
 
Thank you for the guide and for the update. I've been meaning to mod my Namco Stick for years. Its joystick's gates are worn down along with thea actuator. I've been trying to figure out how to revive its joystick or put a LS32 in. I'll try to revive the stock joystick instead.
I believe this is what I went with originally: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5170416
But I also had this printed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4886385

Second one will require to hacksaw and file after. Worked perfectly. I also cut stock Sanwa shaft covers to height so I could hide the nasty bare metal.
 
I believe this is what I went with originally: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5170416
But I also had this printed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4886385

Second one will require to hacksaw and file after. Worked perfectly. I also cut stock Sanwa shaft covers to height so I could hide the nasty bare metal.

I literally just threw this together in my Namco stick and was thinking about how to improve the lever. Everything I did is reversible without damaging the stock case. I threw some Cherry dx44s in there and its ok but id be curious to try the zippys. Are you using that 3d printed actuator still? Ls-32 spring and Zippys is that it? Thanks for your posts!
 
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