Walk in a nutshell
This walk takes you along the cliffs and beaches of the Llyn peninsula, one of the most remote and unspoilt stretches of coastline in Wales. There are spectacular views of the beach sweeping round to the tiny harbour of Porth Nefyn as you walk along the clifftop path from Nefyn, and after you cross a bracken-covered headland, more views of the next bay. You descend and walk along the beach to the picture-perfect fishing village of Porth Dinllaen, which the National Trust has owned since 1994. The rugged headland above it affords an impressive view all the way back up to Yr Eifl's three mighty peaks and Snowdonia.
Why it's special
Although it attracts a lot of tourists, Llyn's remoteness has preserved both its wildlife and its Welsh culture (80% of people in Nefyn speak Welsh as their first language). The sea around it has been designated a special area of conservation and its coast a site of special scientific interest because of the variety of sea and birdlife they support. You may see grey seals, as a small colony is established in the area. A good place to look is from the tip of the headland at waymark 12. The pups are born in autumn with a dense, soft, silky, white fur. They rapidly fatten up from the extremely fat-rich milk they receive from their mothers. In spring and early summer, the clifftops are covered with a blanket of wildflowers.
Keep your eyes peeled for
Eel grass, the only flowering plant that lives in the sea, which takes advantage of the shelter provided around Porth Dinllaen. This simple, ribbon-like plant provides habitat, nursery grounds and food to crabs, scallops and numerous species of fish. If you are extremely lucky you may see a chough, a member of the crow family with a curved red bill and red legs.
But bear in mind
Nefyn takes a long time to reach whichever way you come, and an overnight stay might be a good idea. The place can get a little overrun with tourists, especially in the summer.
Recover afterwards
The Ty Coch Inn in Porth Dinllaen is surely one of the best-situated pubs in Britain. It's only accessible on foot, along the beach.
01758 720498, tycoch.co.uk
If it's tipping down
The Oriel Plas Glyn-y-Weddw arts centre at Llanbedrog is a gallery located in a gothic Victorian mansion overlooking Cardigan Bay with views of Snowdonia.
oriel.org.uk
How to get there
By car
From the A5, take the A470 and then the A496 across Snowdonia. At Maentwrog turn right on to the A487. At Porthmadog turn on to the A497. After 12km turn right on to the B4354. After another 11km turn right, signposted to Nefyn. The car park is near the police station.
By public transport
The nearest train station is Pwllheli. Bus number 8 runs regularly from Pwllheli to Nefyn.
1. Leave the car park turning right and walk the short distance to a lane on the left named Lon Y Traeth.
2. Turn down the lane, heading towards the coast.
3. As the road starts to drop down to the beach, take the tarmac path on the left, following the top of the cliffs. The path soon becomes unsurfaced, but continue along it until it joins a narrow tarmac lane.
4. Turn right along the lane for a short distance, then take a path on the right across the bracken-covered headland.
5. Follow the path and keep heading round to the left until a stone track is reached.
6. Here you continue along the track, passing close by a house to a lane.
7. Turn right and walk along the lane to a sharp left-hand bend.
8. Continue straight ahead, following the public footpath sign down a track towards a large stone house. Upon reaching the house take the footpath to the left of the gatepost, which rejoins the seashore cliffs. Continue until eventually you descend some steps to a road where there is a toilet. Turn right and walk the short distance to the beach.
9. Turn left and walk along the beach to a house on the beach. When the house is reached, continue past it on the beach at low water. Otherwise take the concrete ramp across the front, go through a gap in the wall at the far end then carry on along the beach to a further property on the shore.
10. Pass the group of properties via a path at the rear, then rejoin the beach to Porth Dinllaen. Here there are toilets and a beachside pub.
11. Continue through a gap in the wall at the far end and take the stone path adjacent to the white building ahead. This path meanders around the base of some low cliffs hugging the shore to another small sandy bay and lifeboat station.
12. Take the steps, and after visiting the lifeboat station, continue up the concrete path on to the golf course. From the 15th tee, follow the headland round to the now deserted lookout post, taking care to keep to the edge of the golf course and not walk on the tees or greens. At the tip of the headland you might be fortunate enough to spot seals.
13. From the lookout post continue round the edge of the golf course until you reach a stone track.
14. Go along the track, which can be quite busy in summer as it goes across the course to the clubhouse.
15. Continue past the clubhouse and walk down the tarmac road, passing a National Trust car park until a road is reached on the left.
16. Turn left and proceed down the road, named Lon Bridin, heading towards the beach until the toilets are reached just before waymark 9.
17. Go up the steps opposite the toilets and follow the outward route (waymarks 9 to 1) back to the car park in Nefyn.
